MONTE OLIVETO MAGGIORE - ABBEY
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The Benedictine abbey of Monte Oliveto Maggiore is located between Buonconvento and Asciano in the center of the area known as the "Crete Senesi". The abbey, which has a decidely monumental aspect and considerable dimensions, is immersed among greenery that gives it a profound sense of peace. The abbey was built in the 1300s by three Sienese men (Giovanni Tolomei, who took the religious name of Bernardo, Patrizio Patrizi and Ambrogio Piccolomini), who abandoned their activities and their professions to embrace the hard rule of the Benedictine order ("Ordine degli Olivetani") and to dedicate themselves to contemplation and humanistic studies. These same activities are practiced there today along with the conservation and care of the abbey's precious library. The approval for the building of the monastery came with the "Charta Fundationis" by Guido Tarlati, bishop of Arezzo (1319), and the monastery took the name of "Monte Oliveto Maggiore" (Major) so as to distinguish it from successive foundations (Florence, San Gimignano, Naples, etc.). Construction of the monastery began in 1393 and was completed in 1526, although the buildings were further modified during the Renaissance and the Baroque periods.
An imposing square tower with a drawbridge that was part of the original defences erected to protect the entire complex stands at the entrance to the Abbey. The courtyard of the abbey opens onto a broad avenue of cypresses. To the left is the botanical garden that supplied medicinal plants for the monks. A little further on is the fish pond designed in 1553 by Pelori and used by the monks to provide fish at those times of year during which the Benedictine rule forbade the consumption of meat. The cypress avenue leads to the impressively austere, late-gothic church of the abbey, built between 1399 and 1417 by order of the Abbot Ippolito di Giacomo da Milano. The single nave interior has a cross plan. The fine carved wooden lector is by Raffaele da Brescia and the inlaid wooden choir stalls are by Frà Giovanni da Verona. The transept lead to the Chapel of the Sacrament, whose altar is adorned by an early XIV century wooden Crucifix. In 1772 the church was redecorated in the late-Baroque style by Giovanni Antinori.
The "Chiostro Grande"
The abbey has three XV century cloisters, of which the most magnificent is the rectangular "Chiostro Grande", constructed between 1426 and 1443. It is made up of two passages, one above the other, supported by coloumns. The portico is decorated with fresco cycle by Luca Signorelli depicting the life of Saint Benedict, who began work on its 36 large scenes in 1497. The cycle was finished in 1508 by Sodoma.
The "Chiostro Centrale" is composed of a portico that rests on polygonal coloumns that lead to the magnificent Refectory, decorated with frescoes by Frà Paolo Novelli.
The Monastic Library
The abbey's large Library comprises more than 40.000 volumes, pamphlets and parchments that have been carefully restored by the monks. The Library leads to the Pharmacy, which contains an important collection of XVIII century spice vases. The abbey still produces honey and distilled herbal spirits made according to various ancient recipes.
The Dispensary
The dispensary of the monastery was active until 1865. Its rich collection of pharmaceutical jars is housed in the room above the monumental library and consists of XVII century and XVIII century ceramics originating from the furnaces of San Quirico d'Orcia.
Gregorian Chant
Many visitors come to the Abbey of Monte Oliveto to hear the Gregorian chant sung by the monks. At Monte Oliveto, as in many other Benedictine monasteries, they are part of the conventual mass, at Vespers, at Compline and, in part, at Lauds.
A visit of the abbey follows the rigid monastic rules. A suggestion: don't forget to buy the "amari d'erbe" and the liquors made by the Benedictine brothers.
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